Rhododendron Bud Maintenance

Rhododendron azalea is a perennial woody plant of the genus Azalea, and is erect in its natural state. It can be trimmed into various shapes when artificially cultivated. Bud period refers to the period from the beginning of buds to the opening of most of the flowers of the azaleas, which is generally 90 to 120 days (the length of this period has a lot to do with the curing temperature). The budding period (productive) conservation points are as follows: Azaleas should be maintained in the mid-temperature greenhouse during the bud period. The night temperature should be between 10°C and 15°C, and the aphid temperature should be between 18°C ​​and 25°C. Temperature 20 °C to 30 °C, night temperature 15 °C to 18 °C), slightly lower temperature after flowering (warm temperature 10 °C to 15 °C, night temperature 5 °C to 10 °C). In order to ensure the same flowering period, the plants with different developmental buds should be maintained under different temperature conditions. The temperature of the conservation environment should not be excessively severe, and cold air should be avoided to directly blow the azalea plants. Rhododendron must be maintained under semi-negative conditions (plastic film can play a shadowing effect). The buds should be properly lightened at the beginning of the bud, and the buds should be weakened at the end of the expansion. Shading can delay flowering and prolong flowering, but the color will be slightly Dim, should be noted. The air humidity is preferably 70% to 80%, and the ground should be kept moist. If necessary, steam humidification method should be used. Spraying water and humidifying should prevent foliar alkali formation. The watering interval depends on the wet and dry conditions of the basin. The small basin is poured once every 2 to 3 days, and the large basin can be poured once every 5 to 7 days. Watering directly into the basin should not be sprayed from the crown. It is best to use water that has a temperature close to room temperature after storage. Plants that are debilitated due to drought dehydration have to use a dipping method to fully absorb water in the pots and place them in the shade to restore them. When the temperature is high every day, open the air outlet to ventilate the air to keep the air clean and ensure that the azaleas grow robustly and leaves are clean. When the wind blows, it must be closed to prevent dust and debris from entering the room and falling on the leaves. Rhododendron should be fertilized two or three times after bud emergence, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and foliar spraying of 1% to 2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate (once a week) has better results. After the buds have swollen, they can stop fertilizing. Be careful not to use a pungent fertilizer. Du Fu has fewer pests and diseases during the bud period, and it can generally spray fungicides at 7 to 10 days to prevent the occurrence of diseases. In order to reduce nutrient consumption and diseases, early flowering should be promptly removed. When the flowers are dewy, the azaleas can be exchanged for pots with strong ornamental qualities (such as porcelain pots, zisha pots, and plastic pots). When changing the basin, you must not damage the original soil group. You should use a basin that is slightly larger than the original basin, and add nutrient soil rich in organic matter around to protect the flowers and leaves. Into the flowering period should reduce the temperature, weaken the light, reduce air humidity, in order to extend the flowering period.

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