First, site preparation for fertilization
Before planting overwintering cucumbers, it's essential to prepare the soil properly. A base fertilizer should be applied, ideally a mix of well-composted organic materials such as straw compost, cow and horse manure, chicken manure, and pig manure. It’s important to apply the manure before covering the bed with plastic film. When incorporating the manure into the soil, you can also add fresh chopped materials like straw, fully cooked wheat bran, rice husks, or spent mushroom substrate. The recommended amount of farmyard manure is around 3000 to 5000 kg per acre, along with 100 kg of superphosphate, or 30 to 50 kg of DAP (diammonium phosphate), or 40 to 50 kg of biological fertilizer, or 200 kg of cake fertilizer. The base fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed into the soil. If the quantity is less, it's advisable to spread two-thirds of it first and then the remaining third after digging the furrows. Once the fertilizer is spread, dig deep trenches between the rows, place the remaining fertilizer in the trench, mix it well with the soil, and water the trench to create a firm base. Overwintering cucumber cultivation typically involves large and small ridges, with small row spacing of about 80 cm and large row spacing of 100 cm, allowing for 3300 to 3500 plants per acre.Second, planting
1. Seedling selection and placement: Choose healthy seedlings on a sunny day. Sort them by size—large, medium, and small—and transport them to the planting ridge. From an overall greenhouse perspective, larger seedlings should be placed on the east and west sides and at the front of the greenhouse, while medium-sized ones go in the middle. Within a single row, place the largest seedlings at the front and the smaller ones at the back, ensuring even growth and a neat appearance. Due to the strong light from both sides of the greenhouse, it's important to adjust the density of the seedlings so that all receive similar light exposure. Planting can be done by making holes at the required spacing and placing the seedlings inside, or by creating a deep ditch along the planting ridge and placing the seedlings in the ditch at the proper distance, slightly securing them. Water the hole or ditch, wait for the water to absorb, and then cover the hole or ditch. Be careful not to plant the seedlings too deep; once covered, they should remain level with the surface of the ridge. Avoid burying the grafting interface in the soil.2. Covering the mulch: Traditionally, people used to cover the mulch immediately after planting, but this can hinder the development of deep roots in grafted seedlings and reduce their cold resistance. Since the ground temperature is still relatively high at planting time, there's no need to cover the mulch right away. Instead, allow the roots to establish themselves for about 15 days after planting, and then apply the mulch. This helps improve root development and plant resilience.
Third, vine training
To promote root development and maintain plant vitality, most winter cucumber cultivation avoids natural growth methods. Overwintering cucumbers usually grow up to 40 to 50 nodes, and due to limited greenhouse height, vertical growth is necessary. For easier harvesting, nylon ropes, cloth strings, or net supports are commonly used. These options reduce frame shading and make maintenance more efficient. When using nylon or mesh, avoid direct contact with the greenhouse arches, and instead install them independently. Place the nylon lines higher on the structure to facilitate future renewal.When training the vines, handle the plants gently and avoid pulling them down too much at once, which could damage the leaves. Ensure that the leaves are evenly distributed in space without blocking each other. Also, remove yellow lower leaves, lateral shoots, tendrils, male flowers, deformed fruits, and diseased fruits. Leaf removal isn’t always necessary—only remove leaves that are damaged or not growing well. Generally, no more than 2 to 3 leaves should be removed at a time, and each plant should retain around 20 functional leaves to ensure optimal photosynthesis and growth.
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